Tamiya Mosquito NF.II Build Report 4: Finishing Off the Mossie

Last time around, the Mosquito got derailed by a clear coat of Future that, despite being self-leveling, cured into a rough, dusty finish. After wet-sanding and repainting, the Mossie got back to its previous state, and now it’s time to move on and finish the wooden wonder up!

February,2011,Mosquito NF.II,Nikon 300s 1/48,scale models,Tamiya


After a coat of Tamiya Clear Gloss (the rattlecan variety), I went to work on the decals. I’d originally planned to use a decal sheet from Decals Carpena, but lost several of the markings in the Future mishap. I opted to fall back on Tamiya’s decals for RS-B of the 157th squadron. The decals went down well enough, for Tamiya stock.

I also used Barracudacals Mosquito stencils, and WOW! Talk about nice decals! Highly recommended for anyone building a Mosquito!

February,Nikon 300s 1/48,2011,Tamiya,scale models,Mosquito NF.II


Once the decals cured, they were sealed with another coat of clear gloss. The few panel lines were accentuated with a pin wash of black artist oils, then the entire plane was flat-coated. After this, I moved on to filter washes, first of raw umber, then of black to calm things down.

From here it was a final coat of semi-gloss, minor chipping along the engine cowls (among the only metal skin on the plane), rigging the aerials, and attaching the exhaust shrouds.

The exhaust shrouds and landing gear were weathered with MIG pigments – burnt steel blue and rust over Alclad Exhaust Manifold for the shrouds, and Dark Mud and Black Smoke over Vallejo Black Grey + Leather for the tires.

A little canopy unmasking, attaching the wingtip lights, and that’s it! The Mosquito is done!

March,Mosquito NFII,2011,scale models,1/48,Nikon D300s,Tamiya

Mosquito NFII,1/48,2011,March,Tamiya,Nikon D300s,scale models

March,Mosquito NFII,1/48,scale models,Nikon D300s,2011,Tamiya

Thanks for looking, and be sure to stop back by for future builds!

11 Comments Add yours

  1. Ian Orford says:

    Superb looking Mossie Doogs, tuned out very well in the end! The photo’s are excellent.

    What lighting and camera are you using?

    1. Doogs says:

      Thanks Ian! I’m planning a “taking better pictures” post at some point in the future, but here’s what I wrote in another comment about my setup:

      I use posterboard for my backdrop, with four lights, two key lights at approximately 5 and 7 o’clock, and two higher-up fill lights at 3 and 9. These basically cancel each other out, knocking down shadows.

      My camera is a Nikon D300s, but you can get similar results with any camera with decent manual control. I set up with a tripod, set the shutter timer for 2 seconds, then crank the aperture as low as I can (f/22 on my 35mm lens). At this point I’m usually stuck shooting at something like 1/5 second, hence the tripod, but the small aperture gives a nice, long depth of field so the entire kit is in focus.

      I don’t really worry about white balance or such while I’m shooting – I shoot in RAW format and color correct and such on the computer.

  2. Hi Doogs.Very nice,as usual.When you were talking about weathering the exhaust, you mentioned ” burnt steel blue”.What brand & type of paint is that ? That sounds like something that would come in handy on the M/C builds I do here & there.As well as other situations. Thanks, keith r.

    1. Doogs says:

      Keith – the burnt steel blue is a MIG pigment, one of their newer releases, I believe. You can check it out here: http://migproductions-usa.com/pigments/pigments/jars/burnt-steel-blue.html

  3. Aaron says:

    Looks great, congrats. I think you really pulled off a overall black finish. I haven’t attempted one yet, but you give me hope. 🙂 Sorry about the future coat issue. I’ve noticed that airbrushing future leaves a pebbly finish. I’ve asked countless people about how to lay down a smooth future layer to no avail. The best I’ve found it mixing in some rubbing alcohol or simple green which “breaks the surface tension” for a self-leveling, smooth finish.

    I check your blog daily, thanks for the great tips, write-ups, and pictures.


    1. Doogs says:

      Aaron – thanks for the tip! I’ll be sure to try it if and when I give Future a chance through the airbrush again!

  4. Ian Orford says:

    Thanks for that Doogs, my wife has a Nikon D70, I’ll take that up to the hobby room and have a go!

  5. Thanks,Doogs, for clarifiying my Que. about the paint/MiG pigment thing.In your other posts,I’ve learned that just buiding models aren’t quite enough.Good photograpy skills come into play.Will the learning process ever cease [ I hope not ]!!!! Thanks for the great Blog, may I never become complacent.[ Yet today, Was the 1st High 50’s degree day & I feel my FZ-6 & Quad calling out to me].So I must thank you for the 1st time in my life, waiting for inclement weather !!!! keith r.

  6. M Edwards says:

    Doog,…try future thinned with “windex” window cleaner,…and shoot at 8 to 10 psi.

    The windex helps break the surface tension for a smooth, slick coat.

  7. Michael Draper says:

    Great cockpit details! I have the Airfix 1/72 kit and am looking forward to it after seeing what you have done. I was wondering, though, what color did you do the interiors of the wheel bays and if you added any details to it? I was under the misapprehension that everything for the night fighter version was flat black, but your cockpit had the regular colors.

    1. Doogs says:

      Well the outside paint was all black (until the realized that was ineffective and went to the camo upper/black lower surfaces schemes), but the interior remained interior green. As for the gear bays, they were a silver lacquer…can’t recall what exactly I used on them, though.

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