About

Hey there! Thanks for checking out Doogs’ Models!

About Me

I’m a thirtysomething creative director who develops and executes content marketing and social marketing strategies for some of the world’s largest brands. I’m married with two wonderful children and four mostly wonderful dogs. I live in Austin, Texas and enjoy breakfast tacos and caffeine.

About the Site

My tale is far from unique in the modeling world. I grew up building models – mostly aircraft with a few tanks and ships thrown in for flavor – only to drift away when I discovered cars and girls.

In the summer of 2010, I got the urge to take the old hobby up once more. With two young kids, it seemed a perfect way to decompress and enjoy some much-needed “me time”. And it’s been exactly what I’ve hoped for.

This site is intended to chronicle my all-new adventures in modeling and to share some of the thoughts, knowledge and techniques I’ve been picking up along the way. I’ve been floored to see the impact that the internet has had on modeling, and hope in my own small way to give some of that back.

56 thoughts on “About

  1. Hi Doogs, satch_ip from the forum. I’m just down the road in San Antonio. Really nice work. See you around town.

    Satch

  2. Your story of scale modeling at a young age is similar to mine. Until I discovered cars and girls I spent every dime I made (washing dishes at my Dad’s restaurant) on models. Squadron Shop (Hazel Park, MI then Silver Spring, MD) were my main suppliers. Yup, this was late 60’s early 70’s.

    Badger airbrush connected with a large Co2 tank with regulator. VacuForm toy for those scratchbuilt parts and canopies. Pages of decal sheets, boxes of scrap parts. I was the only kid in town who could buy glue/paints at our local hobby shop without a note from parents.

    I have a an awesome wife and 2 equally awesome kids. After being out of scale modeling for a fracking long time I am getting ready to resume. Am already stashing kits, decals and tools. Future for scale modeling applications? I love it!

    Have enjoyed mining your site and have it bookmarked. The information you share is valuable and I thank you for all your posts and recommendations as this data is saving me a load of time on researching.

    My first project, which got me hooked again, was by a unique path. My Father passed a few years ago (WWII vet, Navy South Pacific 58TF, 7thFleet…always said the B29 saved his life) and I inherited 2 models. Both were assembled in the early 80’s by a good friend of his. These models adorned his HAM Radio office for over 30 years. They were covered with dust and years of a heavy smoke. Pop was a chain smoker.

    Recently I successfully cleaned and removed decals from the TBD-1 and purchased Starfighter Decals Devastors In War Paint. Have photographed several stages and when I finish I will create a website and post my accomplishment. The other model is a P38. Both are 1/48.

    I look forward to complete these projects and preserve a keepsake of my Dads in a special way.

    Sorry for the long winded memo. But, I wanted you to know how happy I am to have found your site.

    Best – Rick

  3. I just recently decided to get back into modeling. I’ve always loved building these things, but now I’ve decided to take my modeling a step further by getting serious with it; taking my time and learning how to get the model how I want it to look. I absolutely love your site. Helps me out and gives me inspiration to get better. Also love the fact that you’re from Austin. I live over in Houston; it’s nice to see local modelers.

  4. Hey there Doogs it’s darson from the forum here. I just wanted to that you’ve got some great looking models here and your site looks fantastic.

    See you around FSM.

  5. hello doogs – your point of view and clarity of communication stand out like a beacon on the fsm forums…i thought that must be someone in the ad business. i made my way over to your blog and am thouroughly impressed by your photography and the content of your site.
    I too am in the ad business..for now. 25 years of art direction in the detroit area working on car, pizza, baseball and pet food advertising. I have a family too and was sorry to hear about your job, hopefully things will work out.
    anyway, i don’t normally participate in forums and blogs, but I do like to read and learn from those who are knowledgable and passionate. It seems you are both.
    Keep up the good work.
    p.s. i was in austin last winter for a shoot and really enjoyed it. then again, it wasn’t 100 degrees.
    mike j. (airedale)

    • Mike – thanks! If you’re coming down to Austin again anytime soon give me a shout – I know of several fantastic little dives that often fly under the radar of visitors. We could grab some Tijuanas (massive hot dogs wrapped in bacon, deep fried, served on hoagie rolls with jalapenos, cheese, and chipotle mayo) at the Jackalope and talk shop! Of course, yeah, not in the middle of August!

  6. Hey Doogs, I’m really loving what you’ve got started here! I just got back into kits a couple of years ago after nearly 20 years of miniature army painting. Gotta say kits are a whole new world for me and have come a long way since i was a kid. I noticed you’re a FSM member, me too, although I must admit I hardly ever use the forums and only just recently realized that one of my builds made the gallery ( OOPS!) I’ve found that I like the structure over at Kitmaker network quite a lot, are you a member over there too? Just want to say thanks for the Wingnuts log. I’ve been scared to death to give it a go, mainly because my first and only attempt at biplanes ended in disaster… Although the risk of destroying a beautiful kit is daunting, I think your approach of just taking your time will be the route I choose also. Keep the good stuff coming, your fellow builders appreciate it!!!

    Cheers! Reamon

    • Hey Reamon – thanks for the comment! I’m not a member over at Kitmaker – so far just Large Scale Planes and FSM. I’d sign on for more but I’m not sure I’d have the time.

      Glad you liked the Pup log – I’ve got a second in the stash I’m going to get to one of these days…have some really cool plans to build it in night trainer markings (complete with stars painted all over the wings)!

      • G’day Doogs, from New Zealand.

        I’m really glad I found this site (via a link on Britmodeller – I’m ‘GrahamB’ there). It is articulate, intelligent, profane, honest and enlightening all wrapped up together. The black base bought me to your site and I’m just employing it for the first time on a WNW Fokker EIV.

        Also, good choice with the WNW Sopwith Pup. One of two that I’ve built was the Pheon decals option with the starry night-fighter scheme and posted this on the Britmodeller and ww1aircraftmodels.com sites. If you want some photos and clues on how to easily fix the fuselage/wing ‘issue’ just email.

        Looking forward to reading more and following this blog.

        Cheers
        Graham (a Limey (to you), or rather Pommie/Pom living in NZ)

    • Hey Heinz – unfortunately, short of guest posts, I don’t have a way to host others’ work here. But if you have a modeling blog (or start one…they’re a blast!), I’d be happy to add it to my links in the sidebar. The comments can also handle URLs if you want to post a link or two.

      • Hey there, thanks for your reply, I thought it could be from interest, to see how the P51 Tamiya looks like in the Air ? have a look at Flicker ! Thanks again Heinz keep the spirit

  7. Hi Doogs,
    I have to thank you for inspiration, some weeks ago I found your blog and it has inspired me to start my own. I’ve been playing with the idea for some time, but your site was the experience that made me realize that idea…
    Also congratulation on the quality of models, given the time you’ve been modelling, the model are impressive. I also found your post on techniques very helpful. keep on..
    so – thanks again

    Vlad

  8. Hi Doogs,

    I enjoyed reading your build up of the Tamiya 1/48 Mustang. Thanks for posting your build up, the photo’s are amazing and your writing style is clear and fun to read.

    Cheers
    Rez (Melbourne, Australia).

  9. Thanks for the report on the Monogram P-47D build. I was looking for something like that, even though the end was not the best. Unlike most, I kept some of the model aircraft I had when young (this must have been sometime in the late 60s, early 70s) and one is a Monogram P-47D Thunderbolt. I even have the build instruction sheet (as I do for most of the models). Now, almost 40 years later, I’m redoing the model in what I hope is a more “polished” manner. Thanks for giving me some tips.

    Gary
    (Longview, Texas)

  10. Doogs,

    Habeñero sauce on breakfast burritos was my fave until I had to have stomach surgery for, well, having habeñero sauce on too many breakfast burritos !

    I’m like a lot of the people here, started model building in the 1960’s and by high school left it for photography, girls, work, girls, cars, girls. I got married, raised two kids. Around 1987 I built a C-46 Commando, a plane my father flew in the USAAF, in 1/48 scale I believe. never could figure out why some Commando’s had that big open hole underneath the nose/cockpit, some have it, some don’t, and was no addressed by the model maker.

    I didn’t build another model until this year, 2012. I’m nearing retirement and decided to pick up model making again as a hobby (duh). My brother asked that I build a model of RB-50G Elint, in 1/72 scale made by Academy, for him as this was the last big engined aircraft our father flew when he was in the USAF in the 1950’s. The RB-50G was an upgraded B-29 built to spy on the Russians, Dad flew it out of Ankara, Turkey, flying a circuit pattern by Lake Van to spy on Russia’s military in Soviet Armenia. The idea was to coax the Russians into lighting up their air warning system and the GIBs (Guys In Back) running the ELINT gear would electronically document the Russian order of battle. The downside was that the Russians would enter non-Russian airspace and come after Dad or any others in his 7406th Suppron “Support Squadron” (re: spooks) flying for the first iteration of the NSA. Dad said MIG 17’s came after his plane one day, he said he dove down to treetop level, balls to the wall full military power past the firewall full tilt boogie and “lost” the MIGs because back then they didn’t have Look Down / Shoot Down radar and lost him in ground clutter. One of his squadron’s planes was not so lucky, a then new C-130 ELINT WAS shot down by MIG 17’s and a replica resides near the NSA commemorating that crew’s sacrifice that fateful day.

    The Academy RB-50G is built so that the bombay doors remain open, but this was not a bomber, so the doors’ fit when closed left a lot to be desired. The interior detail was phenomenal but once the fuselage is glued shut, you can’t see any of it unless you do a cutaway model, which at this point I don’t have the skill to eviscerate at $40 model which I wold most likely screw up.

    I like Doog’s “screw it” philosophy as well as not going all out on Eduard’s PE stuff that gets “lost” once the cockpit is enclosed within the fuselage. The only way I could justify Eduard for cockpits is if it were 1/32 or 1/18 scale, otherwise 1/48 and below is just too small, model dependent of course.

    I look forward to reading/learning more from Doogs and others. Glad to be here.

    Bob

  11. Hello,

    I am also from Austln. Long time luftwaffe model builder. I came across your post while searching for a better way to apply Eduard masks.

    Figured I would drop a line an introduce myself.

    Duane

  12. Hey Doogs,

    I am from Austin as well. I came across your site while searching how best to apply Eduard cockpit masks.
    I am always thankful to have a true hobby shop like Kings Hobby.
    Figured I would drop in and introduce myself.
    Duane

  13. Hi Doogs,

    fantastic work. I found the way to your side through lsm and your really cool Sopwith Snipe. Thanks for mentioning some glitches (wiring of the cockpit – drilling holes).

    Since the Snipe will be my first WNW and WWI aircraft I really have to ask you two questions if you don’t mind… 🙂

    * I was thinking about airbrushing the airframe and then glue it together. But was afraid of the seam and the filler etc. – then I saw that you did it this way. How do you work this area not destroying to much of the color already on the model?

    * How do you fix the cables inside the airframe? Just glued it into the holes or did you do some kind of knot or other fixation?

    Thanks in advance. The Crusader is also on my bench… 🙂 Thanks for all the inspiration. Will definitely try your salt method… 🙂

    Greetings
    Erik

  14. Hi Doogs

    Came across your site whilst searching for a copy of the assembly instruction for Tamiya’s 1/32 scale spitfire mk v111 which I see you have built and I am impressed I hope to build the bobby gibbs version.

    I am hoping you can help me. I wonder if you have kept your copy of the instructions and whether you would send them to me as I think I threw mine out in a clean up I had a couple of months ago, I would return the originals to you, as I just wish to make a clear copy so I can do detailed painting of the parts internally and externally.

    Thank You and Happy Modelling

    Regards Curtis Nunn

  15. Hey Doog, I used to model a lot with my pops when I was young, now im getting old and I want to get back into it. I purchased the Revell PV-1 Ventura and have assembled it flying by the seat of my pants. However, after seeing your models I became intrigued with your methods and results. So to keep it short, what do you recommend for a guy with limited funds as a startup kit, be as thorough or short as you feel, I checked out your info page on the subject but I must not lie, a lot of the terms/products I was unfamiliar with. Love your work, please keep it up!
    Respectfully,

    CL

    • Welcome back to it!

      A startup kit as in an actual model kit, or a collection of gear to get the job done?

      For a kit I have and will continue to recommend Tamiya’s 1/48 P-51B Mustang. It can be found online for under $25, has a low parts count but solid detail, and builds like a dream.

      For the gear you’ll need:

      – Something to cut parts off the sprue trees. Sprue cutters are amazing but can be pricey. Nail clippers work well in a pinch.
      – Xacto knife with #11 blades (curved #10 blades are also really nice to have, but not necessary)
      – Some type of solvent glue that works by literally welding plastic together. I use Tenax 7R, but there are other options. You can also use MEK, which you can buy at any hardware store. Just don’t drink it!
      – Something to apply said solvent glue. I like microbrushes (you can pick these up at Hobby Lobby or do a search online…the yellow ones work best for me). I also like Flex-i-file’s Touch-n-Flow, but that’s one to work into.
      – PVA glue (Micro Krystal Klear is probably the easiest to fine, or watch crystal cement) for small parts and canopies.
      – Tamiya tape, 6mm width, with dispenser. A bit pricey but totally worth it for all taping and masking needs.
      – Some kind of filler putty
      – Tri-grit sanding stick
      – Primer (rattlecan can work just fine in a pinch)
      – Airbrush and compressor. These can get pricey, but I won’t beat around the bush. Unless you’re AMAZING at brush painting, these will do more for your builds than anything else. Start out with something cheap and upgrade when you get a sense for what you like. Personally, for dead-cheap airbrushes, my favorite resource is PleasedShop.com. I’ve ordered some stuff from them before and it’s legit and actually works quite well.
      – Paint. Pick a brand and get just the colors you need, plus black and white, a clear gloss and a clear flat.
      – Thinner.
      – Some decal setting solution

      To really make a go of it, that’s the bare minimum of stuff I would recommend…there’s a lot more that could be hurled at a build, but that’ll cover the basics for sure.

  16. Loved your tutorial on the 3-layer blend. I’m going to try it on the model I currently have going (Eduard BF-108). One question – How does it work on a model with more than one color (camouflage for instance)? Is this the correct order?

    1. Put down all colors for the scheme
    2. Do your lightening, one color at a time
    3. Go over each color in the scheme with your heavily thinned paint. This is the step that would seem tricky to me, you have to follow the scheme exactly a second time and you can’t really do light, misting coats without masks because you’d be over spraying the other color as well. How do you handle this one?

    • It admittedly gets tricky with free-hand camo. With the Spitfire in the tutorial, I literally did do the 3-layer for the Azure, Middlestone and Dark Earth, but the colors were all masked, so doing so was easy.

      I’ve actually moved away from the three-layer of late in favor of using a black primer base. The black base is awesome because you don’t need the same coverage to cover over the obvious gray primer. Black doesn’t look like primer, it looks like shading. So you can get a lot of modulation in one step. Just keep it random, don’t put as much paint on the panel lines, etc.

      I’d recommend checking out my 1/32 B-25, P-47 and Swiss 109 builds to see it in action. I’m also using the black primer technique for my two in-progress Bf 109s, and you can see it in action on the Italian G-4/R6.

  17. Doogs,
    have been following your site and your builds since you first came on line with your re-entry into this hobby. Have really enjoyed and look forwards to everything you’ve put up.

    Cheers to you.

    Like the new look of the site. Hope your having a good spring in Austin

  18. forgot to mention. holding out for you to do a NMF B-29. Seems like you perfected that technique and that was the iconic silver aircraft

  19. Doogs,

    your site is such an inspiration. I’ve been here for hours, never regretted a second.
    Building models I never fully got rid of the impression of doing something completely nerdy. Thanks to your site this is all gone – modeling is the coolest thing on earth.

    Don’t stop doing this!

    All the best,
    Johannes

    • Wow, thanks Johannes! That really means a lot!

      Although…I still think building models is a bit dorky…but I’m okay with that. Big fan of Simon Pegg’s philosophy: “Being a geek is all about being honest about what you enjoy and not being afraid to demonstrate that affection. It means never having to play it cool about how much you like something. It’s basically a license to proudly emote on a somewhat childish level rather than behave like a supposed adult. Being a geek is extremely liberating.”

      • No doubt about this.
        It’s just that making models is not the very first thing you’d mention towards the beautiful blonde with the high heels at a party. On the other hand, I never tried …

        I currently work on a Spitfire 1/32, next thing to come is one of Wingnut Wing’s amazing Great War fighters, possibly the Snipe. I’ll be reading your wood grain tutorial again …

      • it IS dorky, and nerdy, and geeky…..and zero f**ks are given. zen craftsmanship is it’s own reward, and the approval of the hot blonde is not necessary. just charm her, then show her how that attention to detail can benefit her, too! 😉

  20. Doog my friend..greetings from Brazil! As i said on LSP for sure, i just want to thank you for all the inspiring job and tips you provide….
    thank you sir for sharing it
    cheers
    Wilson
    “shepard”

  21. I just found your website – dec 2015. My first impression was ‘incredible graphic design’. Crisp, modern, organized, brilliant visual hierarchy, visually soothing I.e. not stressful, etc. then I saw your profession as Creative Director and it makes perfect sense. As an architect I enjoy any good design, and compliment yours. And, oh yeah, your models are phenomenal. I signed up for your blogposts and am looking forward to them.

  22. Disabled Vietnam era Navy Veteran…………..getting back into modeling after 50+ years to keep ” Bat – Sh%t Crazy ” at bay. (LOL)

    Your armor models and tips have been an inspiration to me…….I have yet to build one, but I’m going large scale ( 1:16 & 1:25 ) so the parts are easy to find 🙂

  23. Doogs, your site and work are incredible. I’ve been reading and following your blog for a couple of months now and I wait anxiously for “the next” blog post each week.

    Thank you for sharing your work, tricks and methods! They have inspired me to take up the hobby again, so much so that I have cracked open an old F16 kit that I’ve had in the cupboard for 20 years!

    Now, how about a blog series showing us the sequencing you like to use for construction and painting through a build?

    All the best from Johannesburg, South Africa.
    Jonathan Davis

  24. All the best from Warsaw, Poland
    I’m 48 years old modeler. I’ve built mostly models of aircraft for more than 20 years. Your work is very inspired, your models simply beautiful. Thank you for inspiration and intentions.

    Wojtek (Voytek 😉 )

  25. I am probably unusual reader. Fourty something building models for thirty something years without break. I was early engaged in educational work as modelling teacher with children. Finally started resin then plastic model company.
    I find your blog through facebook and really enjoy reading your posts. Especially about model industry and model design. Also some good point about weathering, model reality. Thank you for sharing!

  26. Hi from Paris,
    Who is building and painting the kits that we see on the top of the pages ??? Like the Greek F-5, the Schwalbe or the Bf 109 ???
    Thank’s !

  27. Hi Doogs. Loved your airbrush use and cleaning tips, thank you. I notice you also have an infinity HP CRplus airbrush. I am in two minds about getting one. Am currently using an H+S Ultra .4 (great for large spray volume – primers etc) and An Eclipse CS (General use).Your comments about the H+S Infinity compared to a Custom Micron or Iwata HP-B would be greatly appreciated.

    • So – I had an Infinity and sold it. In my opinion, it can’t touch the Iwata HP-C+/B+, much less a Custom Micron. The trigger is nice and precise, but doesn’t have the same feel, so finding and holding the engagement point isn’t the same. It’s a lot like driving a car with really light, isolated steering.

      I also found that the Infinity (and the Ultra for that matter) is highly prone to spitting if you get on just the air. Makes it a pain in the ass for things like mottling. It’s something my Iwatas never do.

      Finally – in my experience H&S needles are rather soft and prone to bending if you look at them wrong. Iwata’s needles must be made out of some crazy samurai alloy.

  28. Comments greatly appreciated. I’ve just been trying out a 2nd hand HP-B. (Old version before the Plus). Thinned Tamiya 1:1 and it worked an absolute treat (although in the future I’ll probably go 2:1 thinners to paint, as you suggested) . Your comment about finding the sweet spot really makes sense now. It was really easy to regulate the paint flow on this gun. In driving terms it was like a well modulated braking system which gives good feedback, so one can easily feel the effect of too much or not enough.
    Reckon I’ll look out for a reasonably priced CM next.

  29. I have quite a few airbrushes.. couple of HS Evos, iwata neo for metalizers, and an Iwata HP-C which is my main airbrush.. I did like the HS brushes but after using the HP-C i rarely use the HS anymore. My question is i have been eyeing a custom micron for a while but not sure if i want a .18 or .23 needle. For most of my main airbrushing i use MR Paints so as you know they are extremely thin so I am thinking the .18?? What needle do you use in your custom micron?

    • I’m running the .18 in my CM-B and that’s the one I would recommend. But – I haven’t tried the CM-C and the .23mm. For me, though, the cup size of the B is just about perfect.

      • Doog, I LOVE your work. Rock and roll attitude and master level skills – a brilliant combination.
        In terms of cup size, I’m more a DD man; have a thing for big Jugs (who can resist a P47 joke?).

  30. Matt,
    Just wanted to say, I’ve been following your blog as well as Jim D.’s for quite awhile now as well as your FB page and your Youtube channel; not sure if I qualify as a “Stalker” but I think I might be pretty fucking close! LOL just kidding. The reason I follow you guys, as well as Will P, is that you guy’s don’t cover up the your feelings with bullshit. You call it like you see it – high-five Brother!
    I have always wondered, why, if these idiots who have nothing better to do, than sit here, read the blog and then tell you what a piece of shit you are; why don’t they just leave? I shake my head in wonderment.
    I do not consider myself a Master Modeler in any sense of the word, I think I do a fairly decent job and I welcome any criticism I ever get when I post a build on a forum. I personally feel, if you are going to post a picture of something you’ve built online, then you are opening up yourself to comments, good and bad. If I dont like what someone says, I let it go and move on, I dont take it personally, especially if they dont give any explanation. If someone says, “that looks like shit, I’d never do that.” Tell me why it looks like shit, why would you not do that. I may agree and file the comment away for consideration in my next build. Unless its you, and you tell me my panel lines are overdone, then I’ll just flip you the bird and say, “Whatever, douche.”
    P.S., just to clarify, I too, hate overdone panel lines, that was just a jab at ya for the hell of it.

  31. Doog…you’re my fucking hero. This is one of those sites I can’t believe I’ve missed for so many years. Excellent articles (looking forward to trying black basing), great snark, and very legitimate concerns and observations about the hobby and industry. You’re writing about the things I’ve been venting about at the local hobby shop for years (shout-out to Skyway Model Shop). I guess all this shameless gushing is just a protracted ‘thanks for doing this’…keep it up.

    You wouldn’t happen to be some long-lost separated-at-birth twin to Jim Wright, of Stonekettle Station fame…I swear, the two of you are literarily identical. Well, pretty close, anyway.

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